One of the last Classical sites we visited was Aphrodisias. Originally settled in the Chalcolithic period (4350 BC), the site of Aphrodisias was continuously occupied until the early 1970s when the villagers living on the site were moved by the Turkish government since the area had become dangerous due to recent earthquakes.

Despite nearly 6,000 years of occupation and its advantageous location on the Meander River and at the border of ancient Caria, Lydia, and Phrygia, the greatest component of the site is Roman. From approximately 200 BC to 400 AD, the city flourished and was a cultural center due to the importance of its Aphrodite cult and as the center of a school of sculpture. A series of earthquakes in the 4th century and on largely destroyed the city and lead to its partial abandonment. The site has been under excavation by New York University since 1961.
Aphrodisias is different from some of the other sites we visited since it is not part of the normal tourist loop. For us, that means more freedom to explore the site and enter the ruins. Also, due to its remote location, much of its rubble lies where it fell during the earthquakes and was not mined by later empires, such as the Ottoman. The rubble allows viewers to get a sense of the age of the site and the kind of catastrophe that causes people to abandon their homes. The sense that people abandoned the city for a reason is lost at sites like Ephesus which has been cleaned-up for the public. Another unique characteristic of Aphrodisias is how much of it survived and did not have to be reconstructed. Its theater, odeion (concert hall), and stadium remain largely intact. During the earthquakes the theater and odeion were abandoned and filled in with debris, either from the roof collapsing or by the citizens in an effort to remove the debris from other sections of the city.

The stadium, one of the best preserved in the Mediterranean, was never as damaged as the other structures. Over its lifetime, it was modified to compensate for earthquake damage and incorporated into the city walls before being abandoned.
As befits a traditional Roman city, Aphrodisias had an impressive double agora, or market place, that we got the opportunity to explore. The earthquakes disrupted the water table in the area so it does flood on occasion, however. The city also has the remnants of a governor’s residence and several baths. The baths are in poor condition, but from them you can get a sense of their size and inner workings. The Temple of Aphrodite, one Aphrodisias’ main attractions in ancient times, was almost completely destroyed first by Christian remodeling and then by earthquakes. It has been partially reconstructed but is still difficult to envision. However, it was in the ruins of the temple that we found some tortoises so if you visit, look for the native wildlife.

Not mentioned in guidebooks are the several homes that have been excavated. Although not nearly as well preserved as the terrace houses at Ephesus, you can get a sense of the living arrangements for wealthy Roman. They are also another good place to look for tortoises and grass snakes. One of the few fully reconstructed monuments at Aphrodisias is the tetrapylon or monumental gateway. It serves as a headstone of sorts for Aphrodisias’ primary excavator Kenan Erim who was buried on the site after his death in 1990. It is also one of few places on the site where you can find living grass. As you leave Aphrodisias, you can stop in the museum which houses many of the sculptures excavated from the site. It offers a good sense of the characteristics of the Aphrodisias School of sculpture.